· The work of sea waves as an agent of gradation includes erosion,
transportation and deposition.
(A) EROSION BY SEA WAVES
:
· Sea
waves have a great erosive force.
· In their role of an erosional agent they perform four functions.
· When
the sea water loaded with rock fragments and sand attack
the coastal rocks it is called abrasion.
· The rock particles present in the water hit against each other and
break into progressively smaller particles. This process is called attrition.
· Thirdly
the broadening of cracks and crevices in the cliffs along the coast due to the
attack of the sea waves is called the hydraulic action.
· All
these processes help in formation of new features on the coastal margins.
Landforms Produced by sea Wave Erosion :
Landforms Produced by sea Wave Erosion :
· Waves,
like streams erode the coastal rocks with the help of rock fragments present in
the water.
· important
features made through sea wave erosion are mentioned here:
(i) Sea Cliff
(i) Sea Cliff
· The maximum impact of the sea waves is observed on the lower
part of the coastal rocks and consequently the lower part of the rocks is
eroded more rapidly than the upper part.
· This
results in the formation of a hollow under the rock and with the passage of
time this excavation in the lower part of the rock keeps on becoming larger.
· The
upper part of the rock is thus left projecting out towards the sea.
· After sometime, this projecting part fall into the sea under its
own weight. As a result a vertical wall is left. This vertical wall is called a
cliff.
(ii) Sea Caves :
· When
the upper part of the coastal rock is hard and the lower part is soft, the erosion
is not uniform.
· The
lower part of the rock in such circumstances is eroded much faster than the
upper part.
· Due to differential erosion a hollow is created in the lower
part of the rock.
· When
the waves pound against this hollow, air present
in the hollow
gets compressed.
· When
the wave comes out of the hollow, the pressure on air is also released and it
expands.
· Due to continuous compression of the air in the hollow, the
rocks are subjected to a great pressure and they break.
· In this process, the hollows in the lower part of the rock keep
on enlarging.
· When a
part of coast extends to some distance into the sea, sea waves working from
opposite directions cut a passage through the soft rocks.
· In the
initial stages, this passage is a narrow hole but it enlarges into a broad
arch.
· When the roof of an arch is broken by erosion or under its own
weight
or due to any other reason a part of the original rock remains standing as a
solitary mass.
· It may
be the rock forming the side of the arch. This type of a feature is called a
seastack.
· Sometimes
they take the shape of islands but such islands are not
permanent.
· Sea
waves, currents and tides are the main agents of transportation of eroded material
in the coastal regions.
· However,
the role of waves is more important in connection with the formation of coastal
relief features.
· The material deposited on the coasts by the rivers and glaciers
etc. is removed and transported by the waves.
Transportation by sea waves is carried out in two ways:
Transportation by sea waves is carried out in two ways:
(i)
Removal and transportation, towards the sea,
of the material deposited by river etc. on the coast.
(ii)
Carrying of material found in the sea to the
coastal areas. During this process, the oceanic materials like pearls,
conches and other shells are brought to the coast.
(C) Deposition by Sea Waves :
(C) Deposition by Sea Waves :
· Sea
waves are helpful in the deposition of the material eroded from the coastal areas.
· Oceanic
current are also helpful in deposition of the transported material.
· Deposition
of the material along the coast is selective.
· The larger particles are deposited first therefore they are
found near the coast.
· On the other hand, the finest particles are deposited last and
they are deposited generally away from the coast.
· This
selective deposition is sometimes altered or affected by a change in the intensity
or force of the waves.
· Thus
it is sometimes possible to find very fine particles deposited near the coast
where generally larger particles are deposited.
· A
number of topographical features are formed due to deposition by waves and currents.
Some of these topographical features are discussed here:
Some of these topographical features are discussed here:
(i) Beach :
· Most of the material eroded and picked up by the waves is
deposited near the coast.
· Due to
this deposition, the sea becomes shallow and a part of the coastal area is
raised above the water level.
· This
raised portion is almost like a flat plain of a platform formed of gravel and
sand.
· This
type of depositional features along the coast is called a beach. Beaches are
centres of tourist attraction.
· Marina
Beach of Chennai and Kovalam Beach of Thiruvananthapuram are the famous beaches
of India.
(ii) Sand Bar :
· Sometimes the deposits of sand and gravel laid down by waves and
currents form embankment, separating shoreline from the sea.
· They thus
form barriers between the sea and the mainland.
· Such
deposits are called sand bars.
(iii) Spit Earth :
· When one end of a bar is attached to the coast and other extends
into the sea, it is called a spit.
· Sometimes due to deposition of waves and currents both the ends
of the bar join to enclose a part of the sea water between the coast and the
bar.
· This
enclosed part of the sea forms a lake of saline water.
· This
saline water lake is called a lagoon.
· Sometimes
the lagoons are formed due to wave erosion also.
· A
lagoon is generally connected with the sea through a narrow passage. The Chilka
and Pulicate lakes on the north-eastern coast and lake Vembanad on Kerala coast
are examples of lagoon lakes in India.
· Topographical
features like beaches, bars, spits and lagoons are formed by the action of
waves.
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